THE NIGHT before we left for home was a fairly low key event. We had decided to eat in the hotel restaurant but Gary and Michael, Gary and Marion, Etty and swales decided they were going out into the surrounding town to find some food. As Gary put it, "I have enough of the crap they are serving up in the hotel."After dinner we went and settled our bill which was quite small we had some laundry costs and the price of one meal in the Belgium restaurant, the other one Jeremy paid for and we all owed him for that. I said to the man at the counter "I would like to check-out", The man said with a beaming smile "Why?" I said "Because I have run out of holiday" he said "OK then we can do that." I have to stress that all the Egyptian people we met were lovely people, they were polite, proud of their country and wanted to please us.
After we paid our bills we retired, and listened to the not so soothing beat of the disco next door until around 4 am, it seemed noisy in general, but that could have been the fact we faced an horrendous journey home.
You heard in Chapter 1 how the tour operator had changed our flights which left us undertaking a 5 hour trip from Aswan to Luxor, we then had a 5 hour drive from Luxor to El Gouna. So theoretically we were facing 10 hours all the way up to Aswan. But lunch in Luxor had been arranged, so we were pretty laid back about it as we woke the following morning.
It was pretty dark at 0430 when I got up and no, not an "Allahu Akbar........." in ear shot they seemed not to have any minarets locally so we had been free of that all week but not free from the noise the disco was putting out. Sleep really didn't feature high on this holiday, food didn't feature high on this holiday, but yet we had a ball.
We were ready for 0600 am, and we trundled the suit cases down to the reception with a view to taking them all the way to the main reception. But the doorman said "Leave the bags here sir, we will get them to your bus." So we walked up to reception and were ready to go after Ange handed in the key and had her yellow all inclusive wrist band ceremoniously cut off. I gladly ripped mine off and threw it in the bin. The next to arrive were Gary and Marion. Gary looked OK but Marion who was always crisp looked like she could sleep on a clothes line. She said "I'm just going to find somewhere to lean whilst I wake up." I stayed outside waiting for the bus. Ange joined me after a while and the others came along two by two until the 12 of us were assembled. Why 12 you may ask after all 16 of us came.
Well, when Jeremy heard about the potential 5 hour drive to Aswan as the tour operator indicated, he felt this was too much for him at the end of the holiday. Obviously Colin was also not inclined to do that journey, and as Etty and Swales were also passenger assisted coming out, then they stuck together going back and Jeremy had booked four flights for them but at an extra cost, from Hurgada a mere 20 minute drive away.
We got on the bus and I went to get the back seat so I could lie across it, but there was a man already lying there, seemingly in his underwear, on the seat in front was hung his shirt and it became apparent that was the second driver. The first had driven from Luxor already and the the second would take over at some stage. The Rep switched his mic on as we were leaving the hotel complex. He talked in a monotone and very fast so I didn't catch much of what he said other than what I mentioned before. So we were off on our return trip, it was 06:30 in the morning and we had a long trek ahead of us.
The first leg of the journey, it was quite boring. There was desert to the left, the right and ahead as far as you could see. And soon we reached the mountains and the road turned into a two-lane road. Our driver was driving fast and to me a little erratic but not enough to scare me too much. He was frustrated when he caught up with slower vehicles and at the first opportunity blew his horn at them and passed,,,and not always when he could see all of the road. Looking down the bus, as Ange and I were at the back, if it was worrying the others it wasn't obvious. The mountains weren't massive but high enough and nothing to see,....but Ange pointed out to me little piles of stone on many of the peaks, just like they are in the Lake District and in Scotland and they call them cairns.
We reached the Oasis after a couple of hours. Everyone but me got off again, I remembered how hot it was, I did go to the door to take the photograph at the start of the blog, because whilst we had been in Egypt I had seen very few Camels. We had drank camel pee purporting to be beer, but didn't see many camels. The ladies and children at the Oasis were very clever, they had Donkeys and there were Goats riding on their backs, what a photo opportunity and maybe a chance to earn some money.
On the way in Colin had some crayons, and he said to me "The bumf said bring pens they like them, so I have some colouring pens I will give them to those kids," I watched him take them and the kids snatched them from him...rather rudely I thought. My guess was some tourist would buy those later.
No one came running for emergency toilet rolls, but Gary (of Gary and Marion) came and asked "Have you two Egyptian Pounds Bob?", "No but I have one." and I gave him that. Gary was the one needing the loo urgently coming and what I forgot to tell you was that he had the chap who minded the toilets knocking on his door telling him his time was up. I think he managed to get another pound from someone.
Back on the bus we had the new driver taking over the old driver walked down the as if in a ceremonial strut saying "I am going to bed goodnight"...and he proceeded to go and lie on the back seat.
We left the desert behind us and picked up traces of green, that became more lush as we drew along side the canal again. Coming back I was on a different side of the bus and could see more of what was happening. At one point we saw what we presumed to be the local butcher. Picture the scene, A collapsible table with some scales on it, Hanging from the tree was the leg and thigh of an animal, I am not sure if it was cow, goat, ox or even camel. There was a guy next to the scales and a man wielding a cleaver chopping bits off the thigh, and putting them in the counter balancing tray, the other chap was throwing weights in the other tray, the customer was waving his arms and occasionally taking out the weights that the other man was putting in. There was a tarpaulin sheet on the floor which had sand, grass, dust, liquid, and a big chunk of meat.....we moved on before the transaction was completed, I rather hoped the customer wasn't the chef from some nearby hotel.
I was amazed to see makeshift homes at the side of the canal. I mean rickety wooden frames covered in polythene in which someone was living. On the other back a mixed group of housing some looking like run down shacks with palm leaves for roofs and others single or double storey concrete blocks with reinforcing rods sticking out of the top pylons, if this was anything like European countries it was a preparation for another storey at a later stage, but nearly everyone had a satellite dish on the roof.
As we neared Luxor, the traffic built up and we entered the city we had already visited twice before. We had a table booked at a 5 star hotel, called the Steigenberger Nile Palace. We decanted from the bus and the heat hit us. We were ushered into the entrance, which opened up into a massive courtyard where people were sat obviously customers some of whom looked ready to go back to which ever country they came from. At the other side we entered the Hotel proper. It was a very fine foyer and we were directed along a corridor to what looked like a dining room, someone behind me said "Looks like we got lucky with this one." I said "don't build your hopes up we will end up in the servants quarters mark my words", just as we neared we were diverted down some steps, "What did I tell you" I muttered. At the bottom of the stairs there was another corridor at the end of which looked like a self service restaurant. Our Rep went to ask someone where we go, it was 11:30pm. The came back and said we are too early for them and we should come back in 15 minutes in the mean time we can go on to the terrace. We did just that and hung around in the shade we were feeling the travel. Laurence went up to the railing at the side of the river Nile, the rest of us were looking at the scenery. Laurence said "Do you mind all moving out of shot, I want this photograph on my own with none of you lot in it." Charming!
The 15 minutes passed and we went back to the self service bit. The rep asked the guy at the entrance if they were ready. There was much shrugging of shoulders and a few evils being thrown around. The Rep said five more minutes.
We hung around and some went to the toilets and the rest of us chatted about the journey so far. "What about that piece of meat being chopped" I said... and a few agreed it was gross. Gary (of Gary and Mike) said don't please I feel sick." "No wonder" replied Mike. Gary (of Gary and Marion) said "Well our Marion is normally fairly laid back and easy going but last night when we got in the disco was so loud we couldn't sleep and Marion made me disco in the bedroom to the music, it didn't stop until after 2 am". Laurence said "2 am you were supposed to be having a quiet early night, because of the travel today." "Well we went out for some food, then we had a few drinks, and you know how it is" said Mike. "And you wonder why you are feeling sick Gary" I chirped in. At this stage the rep was approached by two guys who looked like waiters.
"Follow me please." our rep requested. We were not going into the self service one, we turned right and went down another set of stairs. "See I told you" I said, "Servants quarters." At the bottom we were led into the biggest dining room you have ever seen. I couldn't begin to tell you how many tables there were but if it was 100 it would not surprise me and there were 10 to a table. We sat on two tables but as we were 12 the waiters made us to fill one and have two on the other. Kevin and Carol sat on their own. There were several food containers and trays and salvers filled with fruit, veg, meat. rice, potatoes, pasta. and a table full of cakes. Most of the food was covered with clingfilm.
Our rep asked if we could start it was now 12:15 and the rep was worried we would be late for the plane. The waiters were definitely hostile, and our rep went to someone more senior and still got no joy. At 12:30 the waiters invited us to go and get some food, it was the first time our rep relaxed in the place. The food was adequate but not startling. We ate and then left fairly quickly to get back on the road. Finally we were leaving Luxor for the last time and as we were passing a Mosque "Allahu Akbar......." dam we knew we were back.
The trip to Aswan was under way and we were following the Nile all the way there, sometimes right at the side of it other times a bit away from it, but it was clearly the focus of Egypt, it brought fertile land, valued work and to some prosperity, to most subsistence.
We saw many of the Nile Boats as we sped on, and we made it to the airport just 2 hours before our flight. The rep had told us that in the duty free they didn't take Egyptian money only Dollars, Sterling or Euros. It didn't matter that much to me I could exchange the notes I had back home and I had my debit card for any purchases. We had to have out passports ready and our boarding vouchers to show the policemen at the airport entrance. When we got through the door, we were asked to put our suitcases through the x-ray machine along with any metallic things and our hand luggage, I think every one of us set the alarm off. We were frisked and let through. Once through we were directed by the airport rep to the checking in line, we were right at the end of it, the check-in people were there but they were doing nothing. we were in the left queue, Laurence moved to the right queue, there was the odd person getting through in his line and he moved forward inch by inch, then our line started to move. so Laurence moved over again. then back again until I stopped watching.
It took a full hour to get to the front and we were only 15 minutes from boarding when we had completed our immigration cards . I headed for the duty free shop. Whisky seemed a good price so i bought a litre of Bells. Then I went and bought two cans of Egyptian beer. Ange said "do you want me to get you a bottle" I said "Well I don't want to spend any more on my debit card" Ange said "Laurence just used Egyptian money." So I gave her all my Egyptian and she bought me another one. It seemed within minutes we were going through another x-ray machine as we were en route to board.
We all got settled on the plane and there were seats to spare so once we took off most of our group moved. Me and Ange had three seats so Ange was at the window and I was in the Isle seat. They announced the drinks service and when it got to me I said to the cabin crew, "six bells whiskys and a cup of tea, two glasses with ice." She said that's an odd mix" "not really" I replied. "six whiskys for me and the tea for my wife.".
We landed early 10:15 UK time, but it was 12:15 Egyptian time. We booked a taxi at baggage reclaim we got our taxis, me and Gary and Marion, Ange Dave and Pete, and Laurence and tony Carol and Kevin. we ended up at the Copthorne Effingham, and when we got there we unloaded luggage. I paid half the cost of our taxi that was roughly £7 and then Dave mugged me for Ange's fair that was another £4, even Dick Turpin wore a mask to let you know he was a mugging you. Dave and Pete had to drive to Birmingham, us to Ipswich. We got to reception and car keys were got. Gary found that Marion's car tyre was flat. So he spent a while inflating it, by which time Gary, Mike, Kevin and Carol arrived. We loaded the car, Ange got in Mike and Gary's car and off we went. It was about an hour into the ride and Gary said "the red light on the petrol gauge is on, Marion ring Gary and ask him how far I have about 30 miles of petrol.",,,she did and he said about that 35 miles. After 20 minutes we were getting worried the car was running on fumes. We rang again. Gary said "the petrol station is a few minutes away." it was and we topped up.
After a short time we were at Gary and Michael's house, what a nice house they have. It is a very big house, they showed us our bedroom which was excellent we had towels on the bed ready for use . "Right guys what do you want to drink" most had tea and coffee, I had whisky. we stayed chatting for ages and when we retired we had been travelling 21 hours. Mike and Gary's hospitality was outstanding.
We got up early and had breakfast by 10 am, a brilliant breakfast full English and more, Gary and Mike were excellent hosts.
We hit the road once more for our final time. We reminisced all the way to past Birmingham where we stopped at the services. Yes Gary needed the toilet. We refreshed and got sweets etc. and set off again. We arrived in Bolton around 3 pm Gary and Marion had to carry on further but I do believe as we past one of the mosques I heard "Allahu Akbar...."
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